How to Paint Furniture

Learn how to create unique pieces of furniture with this basic step-by-step guide. 

If your idea of finding the perfect piece of furniture is stalking Beyonce's Instagram to find out which $100k dining table she just purchased, then this blog is not for you.  Straight up.

But if you can look past the old varnish and half peeled off stickers to see the possibilities of creating something beautiful...you're in the right place.

I will step you through all fo the materials, techniques, tips and tricks you will need to transform a tired old piece of furniture into something you can be proud of.

Disclaimer: I am not an expert by any means.  I have learnt through trial and error.  This process works for me and am I happy to share it with you.

 

Step 1: Decide on a finish

Begin with the end in mind.

This is a key step and one that you cannot skip.  The decisions you make at this stage will impact the entire process.

When I started researching this project, I found two main types of possible finishes.

Shabby Chic or Distressed 

This technique uses chalk paint or milk paint to create a soft matt finish.  You can lightly sand back the edge to create a distressed look.  

Pros

• Water-based low toxic paint
• Easy clean up
• You don't need to worry too much about prepping because the paints are pretty forgiving and you are not going for a refined "perfect" look

Cons

• Paint is not hard wearing, so it is likely to crack and chip over time (some people may consider this as pro)
• Can only achieve a matt finish

If this is your jam, head to Pinterest and find a good blog to explain the process.  I may create a guide for this technique in the future, but it was not the result I was looking for on this buffet.

The High-end Finish

This technique will result in a more professional, clean finish and a more refined look.  But I will warn you...it's a much more labour intensive approach.

Pros

• Sleek, professional look
• Hard wearing
• Able to achieve bright whites
• Can use gloss or semi-gloss paint

Cons

• Surface prep is vital
• Toxic fumes 
• Must be painted in a well ventilated area
• Clean up is more difficult and requires turpentine

I decided to go for this option because I wanted a semi-gloss finish rather than a rustic look.  The follow steps will outline this technique.

 

Step 2: Remove hardware

Carefully remove all of the knobs, handles, and hinges. 

Keep these in a safe place, especially if you plan to reuse them.  There a several methods for cleaning them depending on their condition.  I had no intention of reusing mine, so I won't go into that here.

You may note that I did not take my own advise here and remove the hinges and doors.  Being a slightly wonky buffet, I was not 100% convinced that they would easily go back on.  This choice turned out to be ever painful when it came to painting.  As a result, I would absolutely remove the door and hinges next time.  

 

Step 3: Remove varnish 

I made the decision to remove the varnish before sanding since it was very dark and quite thick. 

The last thing I wanted was the dark stain leaking through my white paint, so I decided it was worth the extra step.

Disclaimer: this is super messy!

 

You will need:

• Varnish stripper
• Gloves
• Old or cheap paint brush
• Disposable drop cloth
• Paint scrapers
• Rags
• Soapy water and scourer
• Methylated Spirits or Denatured Ethanol (optional) 

Note: The process here may vary depending on the varnish stripper you buy.  Always follow the instructions provided my the manufacturer.

Set up your buffet on a drop cloth in a well ventilated area.  I would recommend using a drop cloth even if you are not concerned about the flooring for this part.  This process will produce a tar-like substance that you will not want to walk into your house.  Trust me...I learnt this the hard way.  My bathroom looked like a crime scene.

Apply a thick layer of varnish stripper to all surfaces using an old paint brush.  Be generous here.  Less than optimal coverage will make it more difficult to remove the varnish.

Wait an hour.  Well, the instructions said to wait an hour, but by the time I finished applying the goo, it was ready to start scrapping back where I had started.

Using a flexible paint scrapper, start removing the now gelatinous gunge.  Wipe between each scrape on a rag. I used a range of different sized and shaped paint scraper to remove all of the varnish from the intricate fretwork.  An old butter knife would also do the tick since it has a rounded end that will scoop the goo without digging into the wood. 

Once you are happy that the majority of the varnish is removed, use a scourer and either soapy water or methylated spirits to remove any remaining residue.

Allow some time for the wood and any remaining vanish goo to dry before the next step.

 

Step 4: Sanding and gap filling

Time to sand back any imperfections and remaining varnish and fill any cracks and wanted holes.  The length of this stage will vary depending on the condition and intricacy of the wood work. 

You will need:

• Sand paper - 180 grit 
• Sanding block or sponge
• Electric sander (optional)
• Filling product (I use Selleys Spakfilla Rapid)
• Flexible spatula

 

 

Give all surfaces a light sanding, spending extra time on areas that are rough or uneven.

My buffet has a crack in the top that required filling.  Use a spatular to apply the spakfilla as needed, allow to dry, then sand smooth.

Note: at this stage I really should have filled the holes from the old drawer handles.  I will come back to this mistake later...

 

Step 5: Cleaning

You need to thoroughly clean everything to remove all of the sanding dust (including the floor).

This stage is vital! 

It will be tempting to be lazy here.  Don't be. 

This will effect how your paint adheres to the wood and the final paint finish.

You will need:

• Dust pan brush or vacuum cleaner
• Tack cloth

Brush or vacuum the bulk of the dust, then use the tack cloth to do a final wipe down to remove all of the fine dust.  Ensure that you thoroughly clean all of the nooks and crannies to achieve a sharp finish.  

 

Step 6: Prime 

Time to start painting!

Priming has two main purposes.  It creates an ideal surface for your top coat to adhere to and also creates a protective layer to prevent any residual stain leaching up through the paint.  It will also reduce the amount of top coat you will requires

You will need:

• Good quality brush
• Small roller (optional)
• Oil based primer 
• Turpentine
• Latex gloves (or similar)
• Clean drop cloth
• Rags
• Paint stirrer
• Paint pot or container

Put down a clean drop sheet and pop on some gloves.  Give the primer a really good stir to ensure that it is thoroughly mixed and pour a small amount into your paint pot.  Load your brush by dipping the bristles 2-3cm into the paint and wiping the excess off on the side of the container.

Important note: Paint the inside first!

Stupidly, I began painting the outside of my buffet first because I was eager to see what it was going to look like.  Unfortunately, this meant that I had to paint the inside while the outside was still wet, meaning that I ended up absolutely covered in oil based paint.  Now, if this was acrylic paint...no worries, just jump in the shower, give it a little scrub and you're good to go. 

But oil paint is very different - it doesn't simply wash off.  This resulted in a turps scrubbed down administered by the partner, Ben, which was rather painful.  Note recommended.  Paint the inside first.

Apply a thin coat of primer to all surfaces, including the doors and drawers, and allow to dry. 

 

 

Once dry, you can decide if you think a second coast is required.  I decided to applied a second coat on the main large areas.

Allow second coat the dry if applied.

  

Step 7: Sanding

To achieve high quality finish it's a good idea to do a light sand at this stage.  This will reduce any visible bush lines in your priming coat.  Use a fine grit sandpaper and focus on the large flat surfaces.

You will need:

• Sand paper - 180 grit or higher
• Sanding block or sponge
• Tack cloth

 Use your hands to feel for rough or uneven areas and lightly sand them back to smooth.

Once you are happy, use a clean tack cloth to remove all paint dust.

 

Step 8: Paint your top coat

Painting time again!

This coat needs to be applied more carefully than the primer.  Take your time.  This is where investing in good quality brush will really pay off.

You will need:

• Good quality brush
• Small roller (optional)
• Oil based paint in your colour of choice (I used British Paints Semi-Gloss Enamel in Star White) 
• Turpentine
• Latex gloves (or similar)
• Rags
• Paint stirrer 

Pop your gloves on and give you paint a really good stir.  It is vital that the pigment is mixed properly - I'll tell you a funny story not stiring paint properly another time. 

Pour out a small amount and start painting (remember...inside first).

Work in smooth even strokes taking care to lightly brush over any noticeable lines and marks in the paint.  Keep in mind that this is oil paint, so you will have some time to work with it before it starts to dry.

Some people suggest using a fine roller to go over painted areas to move brush marks. This is optional.  I chose not to worry about it since I was happy to achieve a modern country look.  But if you are pedantic about the brush marks, there are many blogs that have tips of reducing them.

Now, my mistake of not removing the doors really caught up with me here.  The doors kept swinging closed and touching wet areas of paint causing me some issues.

 

I had to go full MacGyver and rustle up a system to stop the doors moving. A combination of matches, twine and every esky in our house.  It worked ok...ish.

The lesson here...always take off the doors.

At this stage you will need to decide if you require a second coat.  I chose to do a second top coat on the main flat surfaces, particularly the top.

Step 9: Replace hardware

If you're happy with the original handles and knobs, you simply need to screw them back on....easy.

If, like me, you want to replace the handles, then it may not be that easy.  But I can help make it easier for you than it was for me.

My door knobs were not an issue, since they had only one bolt they were a simple switch out.

The drawer handles were a different story.  

I was under the impression that I could find handles that had the same distance between the screws, since most come in standard sizes.  And, in fact, I did find some that matched.

Unfortunately, since I wanted Hamptons Style cup handles, rather than a swinging handle, the screws attached a few centimetres lower than the existing holes, so they would be visible.

Crap.

Long story short - this meant gap filling the holes and repainting the fronts of the drawers.  Not the end of the world, but I could have saved myself the hassle by filling the whole before I started painting.  Lesson learnt.

 

Step 10: Admire your work

 

 

Additional Notes:

Working with oil-based paints

The paint fumes can be unpleasant.  So it is important to work in a well ventilated areas.

Oil paints take some time to dry.  So it is important that you paint in a place where the piece of furniture can be left to dry.  I chose to leave a week between coats to ensure that paint was dry before sanding, etc.

 

Choosing a brush

While it is recommended to use a good quality brush, you don't need to spend a fortune.

I use a 50mm sash since the angled edge gives me a tip capable of getting into all of the corners, but is still OK for large flat areas.  I purchased mine from Bunnings and spent around $30.

 

 

Brush Care

Working with oil paint makes cleaning up and looking after your brushes is a little more complex.  

First thing to know is that water will not wash it off.  The water is repelled by the oil in the paint and will just run off the outside and not clean anything.

Side note: there are many methods for cleaning and storing oil painting brushes - this is just mine.

Pop on some gloves - I like to use long thick dish gloves for this, since it's not ideal to get turps on your skin.  Pour a small amount of turps onto the bristles of the brush and massage it in to loosen the paint.  (If you would prefer, you can leave the brush to soak in a small jar of turps to loosen the paint instead.)

Rinse the brush in some fresh turps to remove as much paint as possible.  Some will remain - this is ok, particularly if you will be painting with the same colour next time.  Squeeze out as much turps from the bristles as possible.  

To store the brush, tear off a 30x30cm square of cling wrap and pour a half teaspoon of vegetable oil (or other plain oil) in the centre.  Use the brush to brush the oil out to a 10x10cm square.  Place the bush down so the top of the bristles are in the centre of the oiled square, then fold the cling wrap around the bristles and secure it around the handle with tape. I like to use a marker to write "Oil Paint Only" on the tape so that the brush is not accidentally used for water-based paints.

Note: the brush can be stored like this for a long time and it can be used immediately after the cover is removed.